RC Visor Kit
I would say this is a fairly difficult installation, which is why I do not offer these DIY kits openly. There are many things that can go wrong: shorting or breaking wires, getting glue on visors, causing film to lift, etc.
Do not bend the visors with film on inside (on concave side). This could cause the tinted film to release. When installing, you must make certain that the film faces out. If installed incorrectly, the film will buckle and separate from the plastic.
This image shows the installation with mirrored visor removed.
To install the visor, first you must sand the interior of the helmet down to the resin (through any spray paint coating) in the places where you will install the rubber tabs and battery holder. You can use a very rough sandpaper like 60 or 80 grit to do the job quickly. You will want to sand the area to the side of the upper visor about an inch out, bumps and raised areas of interior near base of visor on both sides, and in the mouth area where you will attach the battery holder.
Remove the dust.
Take the slightly tinted, non-mirrored visor. Place side with film facing down and sand with rough sandpaper from the top to about an inch down. Film must face out to convex side or visor will quickly be ruined. Place light strip on the sanded area and decide how high or low you will place it. You can make it brighter if you place it closer to the visor slot, but you are more likely to see the light source the closer it gets.Make sure the diffuser (white foam side) points down and spot light goes to right. Apply some hot glue to the metallic foil tape. Do not apply to foam as it will melt instantly. Quickly place it on the sanded area on the visor.
When cooled, bend visor to make sure strip is well adhered and place visor with lights in the helmet with the film side facing out.
Place Medium CA glue on one side of one narrow rubber piece. Be sparing so the glue does not drip on visor. Take care not to drop the piece on the visor. Press visor into the correct position with other hand. Correct position is bottom of visor just barely covering with overlap of about 1/4". Place rubber to side of visor, not on it, but directly against the side. It should adhere very quickly. If you are good on placement, press into place for 30 seconds. It is best not to get glue on the visor at all so you can remove it for cleaning.
Then do the same on the other side, pressing visor firmly into place with other hand. Make sure the bottom of the visor overlaps plastic by about 1/4 inch.
For the lower part of visor, place glue on half of one rubber rectangle and adhere to helmet resin so that it holds one bottom corner of visor in place. You want to try not to glue the rubber to the visor in case you need to remove it for cleaning or repair in the future, but do not worry about it too much. Even if you bond the rubber to the visor you will be able to peel the rubber from it if needed.
Glue the other rectangle on for the other bottom corner of visor.
Make sure that none of the wire ends around the spot light are in contact to avoid a short. Then, turn on the lights. Do not bend the wires excessively as they can snap.
Now you should place the spotlight. This requires some care. You should turn off the lights and get it into place. Pull it back out and make sure the leads are not coming into contact. Gently put it back and turn the lights on.
I like to use a little piece of craft foam for the next step. A little one inch square works. Apply a blob of hot glue to one side and press it over the wires to lock the led and wiring in place. You can reposition for a few seconds. Try not to cover the back of the LED just yet. You can always hit it with a hair dryer or heat gun to remelt the glue.
If you are happy with your placement, then cut another bigger piece of foam to cover the area and make it look neat.
Hot glue a small square of craft foam over the wires where the battery connector wires start to lock the solid wires in place. You can also cover the solid wires with more glue and foam. The multi strand wires should only be covered near the connection to the rest of the wires so you can remove the box to install batteries as needed.
To keep the battery box in place, I use two pieces of velcro that can wrap around the box and sew a bit of marine vinyl to it with vinyl facing out. This a good surface to CA glue to the resin. I like the box to be sideways with the switch facing internally.
Place silvered visor with film on convex side by sticking into tabs at bottom and pressing. It will probably not fit between the side tabs. Trim a little off the sides with old scissors until it fits snug between the tabs.
This completes the visor installation.
For comfort, I usually install a strip of 1" thick foam in the forehead directly above the visor using hot glue. Then I glue a piece of 1/4" thick foam to the bottom of the 1" foam so that it covers (hangs over) the area of visor with foil tape.
This images shows the completed installation