Yes, if you prefer not to pay in full up front, I can send a PayPal
invoice that you can pay off over time in any amounts you like, and you
can give me an estimate of when you think you’ll pay it off, so I can
try to have your order ready around the same time.
I can usually ship masks, helmets, and props within a week or two.
Costumes, since they are made to your measurements, usually take 2-4 weeks
depending on my workload. If it is an all new design, that can take
I ship worldwide. Within the USA, I ship with USPS (post office) or FedEx,
and internationally, I ship with USPS only.
I have some “Making Of” videos on YouTube that share a little of my
process, but I do not have time to make in-depth tutorials. therpf.com
(Replica Prop Forum) has some of the best tutorials and is my favorite
place to find answers to maker questions.
My current skills are the result of many years of failure and frustration,
and if I did not have a passion for it, I would have given up. If I ever
get weary of doing this stuff, I might write a book to pass things I have
learned on to new generations.
Yes. Always. No two are ever quite the same. If you are concerned about these changes you are welcome to ask, but I usually think the changes are improvements. That’s why I make them. You can also request certain changes specifically like color changes.
Yes, so long as you give me credit with the photo(s) and place it with a link to my website.
Yes. High-Impact Polystyrene is very strong at 1/16 inch or greater thickness and ABS is very strong at even lesser thicknesses. I paint them with UV protection to reduce degradation caused by UV radiation. I prefer vacuum formed plastic when the part does not require sharp corners/edges and needs to be flexible and/or lightweight.
Very. I use polyurethane, which is a very tough plastic resin, and fiber reinforced plastics, like polyester fiberglass. You can usually throw/dash a part on the floor without any damage. It will take minor blows. Stepping or sitting on some parts will break them depending on the part shape and thickness.
Yes, but please be aware that some parts are not “standalone”, that is they are designed to attach to other pieces and might require alteration to make it a part of the whole.
I do not have the capability to mass-produce costumes. I have a small art studio in my backyard, not a factory. I can only do very limited runs of these items before the molds degrade. I would get very bored making more than that.
No. I do not make costumes that have been made so prolifically. These costumes already exist in the world, and there are very fine and detailed versions of these costumes already available. For these reasons, I do not feel the need. For me, this includes costumes like Boba, Jango, Biker Scouts, Royal Guards, Snow Troopers, or Master Chief.
My armor is not designed for safety. It is designed to look good. You could modify most costume pieces for paintball or airsoft, but I take no responsibility for injuries given or received while wearing my costume pieces.
No. Unless you are looking to win a Darwin award, do not use my armor for safety purposes of any kind. These are pieces of art you can wear, not safety equipment.
My mom made my Halloween costumes right in front of me when I was young and entered me in costume contests, which I occasionally won. That got me interested in costuming very early. I made my first costume, 1989 Batman, on my own around age 14, but I only did prop/costume work very rarely until around 2004 when I received my first commission.